Common GFA problems and troubleshooting to fix them.
What Issue Are You Experiencing?
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- Igniter constantly fires and the fan runs when plugged in
- Unit is throwing a large flame or doesn't run
- Unit will not run (has correct propane tank size)
- When the fan is running and the gas knob is turned, the igniter clicks but will not light.
- Heater will light, but not stay lit
- Hose and regulator are missing.
Problem: The igniter constantly fires and the fan runs when it is plugged in.
Possible Issue: It is 100% normal.
Steps to Try:
- The only way to stop the igniter and fan from running is to unplug the unit, but continuous firing is completely normal for units 60,000 BTUs and larger.
Problem: The unit is throwing a large flame or doesn't run.
Possible Issue: The propane tank is too large or too small for the unit.
Steps to Try:
- Check if your propane tank is the right size.
Unit |
Required Propane Tank Size |
40-GFA |
20lb tank |
60V-GFA |
20lb tank |
125V-GFA |
100lb tank |
150V-GFA |
100lb tank |
375T-GFA |
(2) 100lb tanks |
150NGT-GFA |
Natural Gas |
Problem: The unit will not run and has the correct propane tank size.
Possible Issues: No power to outlet or a blown fuse.
Steps to Try:
- The multi-bracket assembly includes an igniter, thermocouple, and high-temperature switch. If determined to be the problem, we will send you a replacement.
Problem: When the fan is running and the gas valve control knob is turned, the igniter clicks but will not light.
Steps to Try:
- Check if the hose and regulator are connected to the tank and heater properly.
- If not, connect the hose and regulator to the propane tank and heater.
- Spray the outside of the lines and connections with a soapy water solution to check for leaks. If you see bubbles when the gas is on, there is a leak in that spot.
- If not, connect the hose and regulator to the propane tank and heater.
- Check if the propane tank is turned on.
- If it's not, slowly turn the valve located at the top of the propane tank counter-clockwise until fully opened.
- Continue to attempt to light the heater by turning the gas valve control knob.
- All of the air needs to be removed from the supply line.
- This can be done by making several attempts to light the heater.
- You may need to loosen the gas supply line fitting a few turns to let the gas flow to remove the air.
- Be sure to re-tighten the fitting before using the unit!
- All of the air needs to be removed from the supply line.
- Check if gas flow is coming through the regulator.
- You can check the gas flow by loosening the inlet connection at the heater with a few turns and checking for bubbles by using a soapy water mixture.
- If there is no gas flow, the regulator needs to be replaced.
- You can check the gas flow by loosening the inlet connection at the heater with a few turns and checking for bubbles by using a soapy water mixture.
- Carefully check if the igniter is sparking inside the combustion chamber.
- If it's not sparking, check the igniter connection to the PCB. If the connection is tight, your igniter is defective.
- Make sure the knob is turning the gas valve control (the knob may be stripped).
Problem: The heater will light but will not stay lit.
Steps to Try:
- Check if the control knob is preventing the stem of the gas valve to be pushed in order to make the coil in the valve.
- If it is, remove the control knob and use pliers to turn the gas valve control stem while pushing it in.
- When the heater lights, hold in the valve stem 30 seconds then release.
- If the heater remains lit, replace the defective knob.
- Check if the voltage is getting through the Hi-Temp Switch. The Hi-Temp Switch is found inside the unit near the combustion chamber. The part looks like a dime with two spade ends attached to it.
- If it's not, remove the two wires on the Hi-Temp Switch and place a jumper wire (12 gauge) between the two wires, connecting them together.
- Check if the thermocouple wire is correctly attached to the rear of the valve. The thermocouple is a part of the multibracket assembly which is found near the combustion chamber of the unit.
- The thermocouple wire is attached to the bottom of the valve by two screws and a retention ring.
- Ensure the screws are tight and that the ring does not need to be bent away from the flange it bolts to. This can cause the voltage from the thermocouple to not be transferred to the coil in the valve.
- Check the thermocouple for MilliVolt output. The thermocouple is a part of the multibracket assembly which is found near the combustion chamber of the unit.
- By removing the two screws from the retention ring that holds the thermocouple wire to the valve, you can check for the voltage output of the thermocouple.
- Remove the wire from the end of the valve and place one of the leads to the thermocouple wire and one to the ground wire; light the heater and with your meter set in the DC voltage setting; it should read between 13 MV to 30 MV for proper voltage to hold the plunger in the gas valve in.
- Check the resistance of the coil in the valve with a multimeter.
- By placing your multimeter in the ohms resistance position, you can read the amount of resistance in the coil of the valve.
- It should have between .01 to .02 ohm resistance for correct operation.
- By placing your multimeter in the ohms resistance position, you can read the amount of resistance in the coil of the valve.
- Replace the control valve with the correct part.
Problem: The hose and regulator are missing.
Steps to Try:
- Let us know and we will send a replacement piece.