Why won't my Kerosene Forced Air Heater work?

If you are having issues with no pressure, not lighting, or shutting down after a few seconds try the steps below first.

What Issue Are You Experiencing?

Click a link to jump to the problem.

• There is no pressure.
• Won't light.
• Shuts down after a few seconds.
• Cycles on and off quickly.
• Gapping rotor for kerosene forced air heaters.
• Still not working?

Problem: There is no pressure.

Possible Issues: Pressure leak or gap rotor. 

Steps to Try:

1. Start at the back of the unit, where the pressure adjustment screw is (on units 70,000 or larger). It is a plastic flat head screw. There is an opening in the back guard to access this screw easily.
   1. Turn the screw a quarter turn to the right, then try starting the unit.
      1. A turn to the right will increase pressure.
      2. A turn to the left will decrease pressure.
2. If you're still not seeing the pressure increase, turn the screw all the way to the right until it will not go anymore and back out two full turns. (This is a factory reset).
3. Next, take the top shell off the unit and make sure the air hoses and fuel hose are connected. They are located going into the combustion chamber burner head near your unit’s nozzle and spark plug.
   1. Check to make sure there are no rips, holes, or tears in any of these hoses.
4. If the pressure screw and lines are attached and in good position, gap the rotor on the back of the motor:
   1. With the unit unplugged, open the top shell and remove the rear guard.
   2. Remove the air pressure gauge (plastic screw, spring, and small ball), and four screws in the End Filter Cover.
   3. Remove the six screws on the End Pump Cover. This will expose the rotor assembly.
      
   4. The rotor sits in the Pump Body (circular piece with a bunch of holes). In the top hole and bottom hole are adjusting screws. Loosening these screws (about 1 turn) will allow you to move the Pump Body up and down.
   5. Using a 0.07 mm or 0.1 mm feeler gauge or a dollar bill folded in half, gap the rotor by placing the gauge in between the rotor and the Pump Body, then when the gauge is snug but can still move, re-tighten the two screws in the Pump Body. If you do not have access to a feeler gauge, a standard business card or folded dollar bill can be used.
      
   6. Reattach the End Pump Cover (hand tighten, and in star order similar to lug nuts on a car).
   7. At this point spin the fan blade, if it does not spin freely it may be that the six screws are too tight.
   8. When the fan spins freely, reattach the End Filter Cover, reattach the air pressure gauge, fan guard, and top shell.
   9. If the unit is still not building pressure, completely unscrew the pressure adjustment screw.
   10. There will be a ball and spring that jump out.
   11. Re-situate this as a ball first then spring. Sometimes the ball gets stuck in the spring.
   12. Do the factory reset on the screw again.
   13. If there is still no pressure, an adjustment may need to be corrected or a new rotor will be needed.

 

Problem: Won't light.

Possible Issue: Igniter not sparking.

Steps to Try:

1. You will hear a Tick, Tick, Tick sound if the igniter is working properly. 
2. If you do not hear this, remove the left side panel to view the PCB.
3. Find where the igniter plugs into the PCB board.
   1. Usually two thicker red wires.
4. Disconnect.
5. With a multimeter, check to see if you are getting 120V out of the pins when turned on.
   1. If no voltage or low voltage, replace PCB

Problem: Shuts down after a few seconds.

Possible Issue: High limit switch or photocell troubleshooting.

Steps to Try:

1. High limit troubleshooting

1. 1. Remove the top shell. 
   2. Locate the switch (round flat circle that has two wires coming off the back), near the combustion chamber. 
   3. Take the two wires off.
   4. Attach a paper clip or 12 gauge wire to the wires.
   5. Turn on.
   6. If the unit stays running, it needs a new high limit switch.

1. Photocell troubleshooting

1. 1. Remove the top shell.
   2. Locate the photocell. It is near the lower left side inside of the unit, near the combustion chamber. It looks like a black plastic tube or very similar to the size of a lipstick tube. 
   3. Clean the lens of the photocell. Use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or water. 
   4. Shine a flashlight in the lens of the photocell and try running the unit. Please be careful when running the unit with the shell off. Use caution. 
   5. If it stays running with the flashlight shining, the photocell needs to be replaced.

Problem: Cycles on and off quickly.

Possible Issue: Thermistor wire.

Steps to Try:

1. Ensure the unit is off and unplugged and remove the top shell. 
2. Locate the thermistor wire. It is a black wire with a plastic end.
   1. It should be located just under the motor support inside the unit. 
   2. If it is not there, please move the wire to this area, but safely away from the fan blade. It should be positioned towards the back guard of the unit.

Problem: Gapping rotor for kerosene forced air heaters.

Steps to Try:

1. With the unit unplugged, open the top shell and remove the rear guard.
2. Remove air pressure gauge (plastic screw, spring, and small ball), and four screws in the End Filter Cover.
3. Remove the six screws on the End Pump Cover. This will expose the rotor assembly
   
4. The rotor sits in the Pump Body (circular piece with a bunch of holes). In the top hole and bottom hole are adjusting screws. Loosening of these screws (about 1 turn) will allow you to move the Pump Body up and down.
5. Using a 0.07 mm or 0.1 mm feeler gauge or a dollar bill folded in half, gap the rotor by placing the gauge in between the rotor and the Pump Body, then when the gauge is snug but can still move, re-tighten the two screws in the Pump Body. If you do not have access to a feeler gauge, a standard business card or folded dollar bill can be used.
   
6. Reattach the End Pump Cover (hand tighten, and in star order similar to lug nuts on a car please).
7. At this point spin the fan blade, if it does not spin freely, it may be that the six screws are too tight.
8. When the fan spins freely, reattach the End Filter Cover, reattach the air pressure gauge, fan guard, and top shell.
9. If the unit is still not building pressure, completely unscrew the pressure adjustment screw.
10. There will be a ball and spring that jump out.
11. Re-situate this as a ball first then spring. Sometimes the ball gets stuck in the spring.
12. Do the factory reset on the screw again.
13. If there is still no pressure, an adjustment may need to be corrected or a new rotor will be needed.